Nigel Slater’s biographical novel Toast is a delightful
read, and the writing is so evocative that the tastes and smells of his
childhood almost waft up from the page. This adaptation by Henry
Filloux-Bennett distils the text into a manageable length for the stage and
brings these sensory experiences very vividly to life.
Your nose does not deceive you. The smell that greets us as
we enter the auditorium is of burnt toast, an aroma that apparently suffused
every breakfast time in Nigel’s childhood. There’s a picture book nostalgia in
the deceptively simple stage set by Libby Watson, taking us straight back to
the 1960s, and this nostalgia seeps out of the storytelling too.
Giles Cooper is the young Nigel, and he takes us through the
highs and lows of his formative years in a series of flashbacks, that appear as
though we are seeing them directly through his memory. Cooper has a gleeful
charm as his narration takes us from scene to scene, and he really captures
many of the facial mannerisms of Slater himself, who was watching from the
centre stalls on press night.
There is something disarming about the way this sort of
storytelling uses familiar tastes and smells to give us a sense of living in
Nigel’s world. A good illustration is the walnut whip that we are all armed
with on taking our seats for the second act. This comes with a strict
instruction not to open it until we’re told, and the collective act of biting
off the top and licking out the filling along with the actors onstage is
undeniably an immersive experience.
The story takes us through the sad loss of Slater’s mother –
she who could never make a slice of toast without burning it – to the arrival
of his domineering stepmother and beyond. There are glimpses into his sexual
awakening mixed in amongst the comforting world of homely food that seems to be
what keeps him grounded. Further family tragedy finally releases Nigel from the
last ties binding him to Wolverhampton, freeing him to out seek a new life in
the kitchens of London.
The play was originally produced in May 2018 at the Lowry,
commissioned as part of their Coming of Age festival. This touring version has
a new cast who have made the roles their own, although it appears to have been
lightly edited, which to an extent strips away some of the most touching
aspects of the story. Nonetheless it remains an evocative piece of very
personal insight.
Nigel lifts a pristine slice of toast and examines it
closely before topping it with freshly cooked garlic mushrooms, prepared in his
signature manner of experimentation. I am told that the aroma of garlic from
the stage wafted all the way to the back of the gallery, finally subduing the
smell of burning.
Katy Federman and Giles Cooper in Toast - photo (c) Piers Foley |
Star Rating: Three Stars
Toast is at the Playhouse until 14th September
and continues touring until December.
This review was originally written for and published by Good News Liverpool
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